First: If you haven't read the Beginner's Section in full, go back and do it.
Second: Do not buy "sensitive skin" products yet.
Third: Your technique probably needs work
You're probably here because you think that your skin is sensitive, either because you've been using a Gillette "Octo-blade" razor, or you're just starting out as a wetshaver. Chances are, your skin isn't sensitive, but rather, there's something wrong with your shaving technique, so DON'T GO OUT AND BUY A BUNCH OF STUFF. For 95% of shavers with "sensitive skin", a re-evaluation of technique will eliminate your skin sensitivities. Before continuing, make sure you've read the Beginner's Section and please watch videos from the Video Wiki to be absolutely sure that your technique is sound.
Allergens trigger a physically manifested immune response. Examples of reactions include raised, red, itching rashes or blisters (not to be confused with razor bumps which are focused around the much larger hair follicles). These typically small facial rashes may look similar to a poison ivy-like reaction. Repetitive exposure to allergens typically leads to a compounding severity of reaction. Common culprits may be binders like parabens and sulfates, but also some fragrance components.
Sensitivities are are chemical intolerances to the ingredients in shaving products. Common causes are certain alcohols (like menthol), low pH products (acids), urea content, and high pH products (bases). If you feel a burning sensation without a bodily response, like raised skin, that is discomfort, not an allergy. Additionally, some substances are intentionally painful, such as urea, which can serve as an exfoliator. For organizational purposes, chemical sensitivities regarding fragrances are not included here, but in that section below.
"Why do artisans use ingredients that are potential allergens or that may irritate?"
Artisans that are not recommended here will knowingly use ingredients that are known to irritate. Some artisans produce soaps that have known irritants, such as sandalwood or cinnamon, because there is enough customer demand to make up for the potential pain experienced by a few.
Mechanical irritation is not related to the component ingredients, but rather, in how they're applied. Irritation will almost certainly be solved by improving your technique. And if not improved by technique, then blades, razors, brushes, and finally soaps may be deduced to be the culprit.
If your face hurts before you touch a razor to it, you might suffer from "brush burn," which either comes from lathering too hard, not soaking your natural hair brush long-enough, or sometimes just from the hairs themselves (natural hairs are firmer).
A majority of shavers with sensitive skin exclusively use synthetic brushes. The synthetic "hairs" are much less abrasive than natural hairs. In order to determine if you have brush burn, lather your face as you normally would, then wash off the soap. Inspect your skin for redness. Natural hairs also require more maintenance to clean and may be more likely to harbor bacteria as a result. Finally, the brush doesn't need to be flattened against your face in order to face-lather. Softer brushes may eliminate a great deal of irritation.
If you're sure that you have brush burn, but don't want to purchase a new brush, bowl-lathering will alleviate most the of the contact with your face.
A couple of well known artisans add so much fragrance into their soaps that users encounter a burning sensation. The addition of this much fragrance means that while the soaps smell good, the pH or the concentration of scent irritants is so high that users feel a burning sensation.
On rare occasions, shavers encounter scented soaps, aftershaves, and fragrances that cause irritation. Irritation may occur, depending on the artisan, the soapmaking process, the fragrance oils used, and the quantity of those fragrance oils. Generally, users know about a fragrance sensitivity in advance, but because this will vary from artisan to artisan (and even from soap to soap from one artisan), soap samples are a recommended course if you're looking to use scented soaps.
Many of the listed irritants below may not cause an observable reaction when consumed orally, but due to the direct application to the skin and the concentrated nature in the fragrances used in soapmaking, reactions may occur. These symptoms typically manifest as burning, stinging, redness or an irritated sensation wherever the soap made contact with the skin.
Bottom Line: If it burns you, stop using it.
For a the full, in-depth analysis of each ingredient, please click here or scroll to the bottom of the page.
Evaluating your own technique isn't easy. The simplest way to start is by watching YouTube videos. We all had to re-learn how to shave when we started this hobby, but many of us find that we can get passable shaves with cartridge razors now because we learned how to shave properly. If you haven't mapped your beard, now is a good time to do so.
First and foremost, even though we all love a BBS shave, shaving against the grain (ATG) is going to be the most painful direction for shaving. Until you've refined your shaving technique, stick to with the grain (WTG) and across the grain (XTG) to reduce irritation. Focus on getting an irritation-free shave first and then start introducing other variables one at a time, and then start attempting ATG. Some shavers may never be able to shave ATG.
Shaving, as a process, is not inherently good for your skin. As daily shavers can attest, Monday shaves are the best, because the skin has recovered from having a scalpel dragged over it 5 days in a row. Soap is drying to the face, regardless of what moisturizing ingredients artisans may add. Shaving every other day, or even every 3-7 days (if your job or significant other permit) will yield greatly diminished irritation.
Cold water may not seem appealing at first, but many encounter some of their best shaves when using cold water. The luxury of a warm lather shave isn't worth the pain and irritation. The jury is out on the science of why this works, but some theories include "blade warp" under warm water, where the blade's edge changes shape and cuts unevenly. This may alleviate pain sufficiently for you to develop your technique at least to where you can use tepid water for your shave.
Your neck is the thinnest and most sensitive skin that you'll shave daily, easily leading to razor burn and irritation. Of course, those neck hairs also grow in all directions, so be sure to limit your passes on the neck to avoid multiple passes in that area.
A technique is to use your non-razor hand, to make sure that you've pulled the skin taut wherever possible. Pulling the skin over your jawbone removes many of the harder curves as well, giving you access to the hairs that are otherwise "under the chin."
Don't change too many things at once when you're starting out. Consistency is the key to learning to wetshave, so only change one variable at a time and see how it feels over the course of a week (not just one day).
Speed is equal parts confidence and shaving technique.
Shavers who encounter irritation are usually going over some area of their face too fast. Shaving too fast means that your technique will suffer. Being decisive with your passes is important, but until you're shaving consistently well, you'll want to slow down. When you're shaving fast, you're paying less attention to these things which significantly affect your shave.
There is such a thing as shaving too slow. If it feels like the razor is tugging and you're moving really slowly, you do need a bit of speed and pressure to make the razor work. Shave a portion of your arm or leg to get acquainted with the angles and pressure needed to get a good shave. A little bit of confidence can go a long way.
Your pre-shave routine may have significant impact on the quality of your shave. Following the same routine every morning might take longer, but we got into wetshaving for quality, not speed.
If you're not showering before your shave, a hot towel will soften your hairs and prepare your face for shaving. While your pores don't physically open and close, heat tends to dislodge dirt and bacteria, thereby "opening" your pores. This also helps in preventing the development of acne. Showering or a hot towel will also essentially ensure that your face is wet before you lather.
Pre-shave oils that are labeled as "for shaving" are typically overpriced and unnecessary for most users. Common products that work well are Mineral Oil, Jojoba Oil and Vanicream. Mineral oil is the recommended highest. A vast majority of shavers whose shaves benefit from pre-shave products (i.e. those without medically diagnosed skin conditions) simply suffer from poor technique.
A seemingly unusual recommendation, since the readily available supply (available at most drugstores) is marketed as an "intestinal lubricant," mineral oil is an incredible pre-shave product. If you find the "intestinal lubricant" usage statement off-putting, Johnson's Baby Oil is mineral oil and fragrance, but should be suitable for most users. Regardless, mineral oil is extremely inexpensive (~$5/year) as a shaving oil, and it has been extensively-tested and found to be extremely safe for internal and external use. Mineral oil is also completely non-comedogenic, a fancy word, meaning that it "won't cause pimples."
It's very thick, so use sparingly as shaving oil. For those who shave in the shower (body or face), mix a small amount in with shaving soap. Mix a slightly larger amount in with shower soap/shampoo for a residual amount that should still aid in shaving (e.g. legs). Bonus: Mixed with shampoo, it also works well as a detangler/conditioner for a one-step shampoo)
r/skincareaddiction had a lengthy discussion on it, located at this link.
Many beginner wetshavers make the mistake of pushing their razor into their face. Nearly all razors have enough weight in their body to cut hair. The lightest touch is all that is needed to guide the razor across your face. Too much razor pressure while shaving causes irritation and razor burn.
We've said it before, and we'll say it again, your lather sucks. Users with years and years of experience, sometimes don't know how to make a proper lather. Please see this post and the [Lather Tutorial Section]() of the wiki.
Generally, but not always, cheaper soaps and creams are going to contain irritants and cheap preservatives, such as TOBS. These cream soaps also provide far less protection of your face, which tends to lead to more irritation as well. Generally, these should be avoided.
Glycerin soaps, are essentially clear-ish pucks that are extremely drying, but provide adequate slickness. Glycerin soaps are not recommended. Artisan "hard" soaps are going to allow a shaver to make a much denser lather than cream soaps or glycerin soaps. Artisan hard soap also contains a lot of moisturizing ingredients that help soothe your skin post-shave.
Using a blade for too long will cause irritation and the "sensation" of sensitive skin. Using a blade for only one shave may eliminates the "comfortability" period that usually lasts from the second to the fifth shave. Depending on your skin, you'll need to determine how long to use a blade, but the good news is that they're so much cheaper than cartridges that you won't notice the price difference.
Blades use for sensitive shavers varies widely, and there really isn't a consensus on which blades are best. Overall, blade sampler packs are ideal. More on blades can be found in the Blades Wiki, but generally, here are some tips.
Blades that are too mild for you will tug and catch on your hair. This tugging will irritate your face, and can also cause ingrown hairs. Milder isn't always better either, as you may require an additional pass with a mild blade. More passes = more irritation.
Blades that are too sharp for you will be more conducive to razor burn, while also leading to more nicks, cuts, and weepers. Sharper blades can eliminate the need for successive passes, but may leave your face bloody in the process.
Blades are the sharpest when they're new. Many blades have a "comfortability break-in period" of 1-2 shaves. If you use a fresh blade every shave, you're going to get a lot of aggressive shaves that may be uncomfortable. Experiment with using your blades a little longer to find the sweet spot.
Conversely, you can also use blades for too long. When blades begin to tug as you shave, it may be time to change the blade. Depending on where you're shaving, your blades will last different lengths. Face shavers can easily get 2-7 shaves per blade, while leg/body shavers get maybe 2-4 shaves per blade.
Not all razors are the same.
"I don't know if my razor is aggressive or mild."
Have no fear! There's a wiki page on DE Razor Comparisons
Your razor probably isn't too mild. Almost assuredly, your technique needs work. Sometimes though, if you find that your shaves aren't as close as you think, or if you require more passes than necessary, you may have a razor that is too mild.
Similar to the blades above, if you find yourself cutting yourself easily and/or getting razor burn in one pass, your razor may be too aggressive. Don't attribute to your razor what could also be attributed to bad technique.
Assuming you have a beginner razor, which should be mild, you'll need to experiment with steep and shallow angles on your face. The hardest part for most new shavers is maintaining that same angle throughout your shave on your entire face/neck. Don't "ride the cap." The cap is the top of the razor, and if there's too much shiny part touching your face, you're riding the cap, adding passes to your shave... while cutting very little hair. Practice shaving your arm to find out what angles best cut the hair.
Though it seems like common sense, be sure to thoroughly rinse your face after your shave. Doing so before the application of a post-shave product will remove any residual soap or oil that you've just scraped from your face.
If you find that you get acne following your shaves, this is most likely caused by post-shave products. Regardless, the Acne Section will provide some tips for alleviating this annoyance.
Alcohol is known for its skin-drying effects, but pleasant sting, cooling effect, antiseptic qualities, and tightening sensation. If you plan on using a primarily alcohol aftershave, however, you may want to follow it quickly with a moisturizer.
For background though, here's a list of alcohols that are good for your face, so that you can evaluate your shaving products:
NOTE: Lanolin may cause an allergic reaction or irritation for some.
Bad alcohols aren't necessarily bad for your skin, but they may have less than perfect results. A good example is SD-40B (denatured alcohol). While it is "alcohol," which can be found in the list below, this alcohol has a few benefits. The alcohol leads to a cooling, tightening, and slightly stinging sensation. Denatured alcohol can also contained dissolved ingredients that would otherwise clump together and additionally, can help deliver those skincare ingredients deeper into your skin. Overall, if the percentage of alcohol is too high, it will dry your skin.
All of the recommended artisans in this sub who sell aftershaves take the skin-drying into account and add many other soothing, antiseptic, and moisturizing skincare ingredients. Most artisans who use alcohol in their aftershaves also use a nearly equal amount of witch hazel as well, which is far less irritating to the skin.
Witch hazel is a plant that is native to North America. Its species name is Hamamelis Virginiana. It is also known by the name "Winterbloom." To make witch hazel products, the tannins and polyphenols are extracted from the plants bark and leaves. They then take that witch hazel product and dilute it down with other ingredients to make the final product.
For wetshaving, witch hazel's anti-inflammatory effects are well-documented, thus these products are highly recommended. When you’re looking to buy a witch hazel product, there are 2 main categories: witch hazel toners and witch hazel astringents. Witch hazel toners are usually mixed with several other all-natural ingredients and are alcohol-free. Witch hazel astringents though are usually made with just witch hazel and alcohol.
For those with sensitive skin, witch-hazel toners are recommended, as they lack the alcohol that may cause dryness and irritation.
Post shave balms/salves/lotions are more of a concern for those with acne, as they tend to clog pores due to their solid nature vs their aftershave/toner brethren. Most artisan balms have been formulated to be compatible with sensitive skin, but are usually fragranced and as such, may not work with sensitive skin. Chances are higher, if you're acne-prone, that you'll have a breakout, with balms. Somewhat similar to soaps, try to get a sample to test before a full-size purchase.
A cheap, highly-recommended, versatile moisturizer is Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm.
NOTE: The following are broad summarizations from non-medical research, though there are medical journals attached for your own further exploration. They are compiled and posted here for user awareness only. This is explicitly not medical advice. Contact a medical professional if you believe you may be having an allergic reaction to an ingredient. More information on irritants can be found in this document from the European Commission's Scientific Committee on Perfume Allergies.
There are many factors in what may irritate skin. Just because a scent note is found in the list below doesn't guarantee that it will irritate your skin. Many artisans and fragrancers find ways to include non-irritating versions of scents, for broader appeal to customers. As stated numerous times: Purchase samples and test in an inconspicuous area before full product use.
Cinnamon is a known irritant that is commonly included in "gourmand" or sweet scents as a spice note to counter-act the sweetness. Synthetic cinnamon scent ingredients are more expensive, but may not cause the same reaction as authentic cinnamon. Common symptoms are: burning, stinging, redness, and irritation. Medical Journal #1. The constituent irritants, cinnamic alcohol and cinnamic aldehyde, are so-named because they are found in cinnamon leaves, but are also found in hyacinth oil, balsam of peru, and propolis (a product from bees.) Propolis is also sometimes found in skin creams and balms, where it has also been found to cause irritation.
Sandalwood is a scent that is famous in wetshaving, but is also a known irritant for some. Typically the sandalwood allergies are to the synthetic fragrances that are used predominantly in soaps. Sandalwood essential oils are really expensive, so most artisans do not use them in their scents. Users may find that products with non-synthetic sandalwood products do not irritate their skin. Common symptoms: are burning, stinging, redness, and irritation.
Eugenol is a known irritant that can be found in clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, rose, basil, and bay essential oils. A majority of “spiced” products contain Eugenol, so advance research is advised. While it does have some antiseptic and fungicidal properties, reactions are well-documented. Here is Medical Journal #1 documenting facial burns from “clove essential oil” which as standard, has a eugenol concentration of 77-95%. Another similar fragrancing ingredient, isoeugenol may produce similar reactions.
Coumarin derivatives, commonly used in fragrances for cosmetics, are known to irritate the skin when applied topically to the skin. Medical Journal #1. Further, multiple studies proved that pure coumarin does not cause an allergic reaction. From a shaving perspective, most artisans will most likely not be able to afford the pure coumarin that would be irritation-free, so samples are advised. Medical Journal #2.
Citral is a known irritant that is found naturally in lemongrass, citrus, cardamom, petitgrain, and ginger essential oils. It is known for having a strong citrus smell, and it has anti-microbial and anti-fungal properties. Outside of fragrancing, it may also be used as a preservative in the formulation of cosmetics and personal care products. Citral in the main ingredient in citronella, but even if skin allergies to citronella are not encountered in the use of bug sprays, irritation may be found in shaving products. Symptoms include rashes, blisters, itchy skin, swollen eyes, and swollen lips. Medical Journal #1 Other similar fragrancing ingredients such as Hydroxycitronella, Limonene, and Linalool, commonly used for a “citrus scent” may produce similar results.
Geraniol is a “rosy, floral scent” used in fragrancing, but is known to be a skin irritant and skin sensitizer. Derived from rose, citronella, palmarosa, and geranium essential oils, geraniol is frequently found in fragrance mixes with Citral, meaning that either one may be the cause of a reaction. Medical Journal #1, Medical Journal #2
Lanolin is a common ingredient used to combat dry skin, and while not a scent ingredient, it may be found in many artisan products. If you suspect that you have a lanolin allergy, check the labels of your shave products. Common symptoms are: burning, stinging, redness, and irritation. In extreme and rare cases, skin infection, and unusual changes in skin appearance and texture may occur. Source 1
Menthol is another common ingredient used in shaving products. It may be used as a scent ingredient, but is most often used to impart a cooling sensation to the user. Menthol can also be used as a "counter-irritant" to reduce or minimize irritation from shaving by "distracting your brain from the pain of shaving." Traditional menthol is organically derived and may cause irritation to the skin. Source 1. Shavers may encounter poorer shaves with menthol due to the numbing sensation caused by the additive. Some artisans have begun using synthetic menthol ingredients that are stronger and do not cause irritation. Here's an article from Sharpologist, written by Will Carius (of Barrister and Mann) that goes into some depth on the topic.